Kimonos are traditionally made from a single bolt of fabric called a tan. We'll never post without your permission. Men's sleeves are less deep than women's kimono sleeves to accommodate the obi around the waist beneath them, whereas on a woman's kimono, the long, unattached bottom of the sleeve can hang over the obi without getting in the way.
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Today, kimono are most often worn by women, particularly on special occasions. Traditionally, unmarried women wore a style of kimono called furisode ,  with almost floor-length sleeves, on special occasions.
A few older women and even fewer men still wear the kimono on a daily basis. Men wear the kimono most often at weddings , tea ceremonies , and other very special or very formal occasions. Professional sumo wrestlers are often seen in the kimono because they are required to wear traditional Japanese dress whenever appearing in public. Chinese fashion had a huge influence on Japan from the Kofun period to the early Heian period as a result of mass immigration from the continent and a Japanese envoy to the Tang Dynasty.
During Japan's Heian period — AD , the kimono became increasingly stylized, though one still wore a half-apron, called a mo , over it. Kimonos made with exceptional skill from fine materials have been regarded as great works of art. The formal kimono was replaced by the more convenient Western clothes and yukata as everyday wear. After an edict by Emperor Meiji ,  police, railroad men and teachers moved to Western clothes. The Western clothes became the army and school uniform for boys.
Between and the sailor outfit replaced the undivided hakama in school uniforms for girls. In the Western world, kimono-styled women's jackets, similar to a casual cardigan ,  gained public attention as a popular fashion item in Kimonos for men should fall approximately to the ankle without tucking.
A woman's kimono has additional length to allow for the ohashori , the tuck that can be seen under the obi, which is used to adjust the kimono to the wearer. An ideally tailored kimono has sleeves that fall to the wrist when the arms are lowered. Kimono textiles can to be classified into two categories: Till the end of the Edo period, tailoring of these fabrics were handled respectively at Gofuku store Gofuku Dana and Futomono stores Futomono Dana , however, after the Meiji period, kimono was not worn as daily wear very often and Futomono stores eventually went out of business.
Kimonos are traditionally made from a single bolt of fabric called a tan. Tan come in standard dimensions—about 36 centimetres wide and The finished kimono consists of four main strips of fabric—two panels covering the body and two panels forming the sleeves—with additional smaller strips forming the narrow front panels and collar.
Because the entire bolt remains in the finished garment without cutting, the kimono can be retailored easily to fit another person. The maximum width of the sleeve is dictated by the width of the fabric.
The distance from the center of the spine to the end of the sleeve could not exceed twice the width of the fabric. Traditional kimono fabric was typically no more than 36 centimeters 14 inches wide. Thus the distance from spine to wrist could not exceed a maximum of roughly 68 centimeters 27 inches.
Modern kimono fabric is woven as wide as 42 centimeters 17 inches to accommodate modern Japanese body sizes. Very tall or heavy people, such as sumo wrestlers, must have kimonos custom-made by either joining multiple bolts, weaving custom-width fabric, or using non-standard size fabric.
Traditionally, kimonos are sewn by hand; even machine-made kimonos require substantial hand-stitching. Kimono fabrics are frequently hand-made and -decorated. Over time there have been many variations in color, fabric and style, as well as accessories such as the obi. The kimono and obi are traditionally made of hemp, linen, silk, silk brocade, silk crepes such as chirimen and satin weaves such as rinzu. Modern kimonos are widely available in less-expensive easy-care fabrics such as rayon, cotton sateen, cotton, polyester and other synthetic fibers.
Silk is still considered the ideal fabric. Customarily, woven patterns and dyed repeat patterns are considered informal.
Formal kimonos have free-style designs dyed over the whole surface or along the hem. The pattern of the kimono can determine in which season it should be worn. For example, a pattern with butterflies or cherry blossoms would be worn in spring. Watery designs are common during the summer.
A popular autumn motif is the russet leaf of the Japanese maple ; for winter, designs may include bamboo , pine trees and plum blossoms. A popular form of textile art in Japan is shibori intricate tie dye , found on some of the more expensive kimonos and haori kimono jackets. Patterns are created by minutely binding the fabric and masking off areas, then dying it, usually by hand.
When the bindings are removed, an undyed pattern is revealed. Shibori work can be further enhanced with yuzen hand applied drawing or painting with textile dyes or with embroidery; it is then known as tsujigahana. Shibori textiles are very time-consuming to produce and require great skill, so the textiles and garments created from them are very expensive and highly prized.
Old kimonos are often recycled in: Damaged kimonos can be disassembled and resewn to hide the soiled areas, and those with damage below the waistline can be worn under a hakama. Historically, skilled craftsmen laboriously picked the silk thread from old kimono and rewove it into a new textile in the width of a heko obi for men's kimono, using a recycling weaving method called saki-ori.
A single obi may cost several thousand dollars. However, most kimonos owned by kimono hobbyists or by practitioners of traditional arts are far less expensive. Enterprising people make their own kimono and undergarments by following a standard pattern, or by recycling older kimonos. Cheaper and machine-made fabrics can substitute for the traditional hand-dyed silk. Women's obi, however, mostly remain an expensive item. Men's obi, even those made from silk, tend to be much less expensive, because they are narrower, shorter and less decorative than those worn by women.
Kimonos range from extremely formal to casual. The level of formality of women's kimono is determined mostly by the pattern of the fabric, and color. Young women's kimonos have longer sleeves, signifying that they are not married, and tend to be more elaborate than similarly formal older women's kimono. Formality is also determined by the type and color of accessories, the fabric, and the number or absence of kamon family crests , with five crests signifying extreme formality. Kimonos made of fabrics such as cotton and polyester generally reflect a more casual style.
The typical woman's kimono outfit consists of twelve or more separate pieces that are worn, matched, and secured in prescribed ways, and the assistance of licensed professional kimono dressers may be required.
Called upon mostly for special occasions, kimono dressers both work out of hair salons and make house calls.
Choosing an appropriate type of kimono requires knowledge of the garment's symbolism and subtle social messages, reflecting the woman's age, marital status, and the level of formality of the occasion. Furisode are the most formal kimono for unmarried women, with colorful patterns that cover the entire garment.
They are usually worn at coming-of-age ceremonies seijin shiki and by unmarried female relatives of the bride at weddings and wedding receptions. They may also be worn to formal parties. They are mainly worn to tea ceremonies. The dyed silk may be figured rinzu , similar to jacquard , but has no differently colored patterns. It comes from the word "muji" which means plain or solid and "iro" which means color. The term refers to kimono with a small, repeated pattern throughout the garment.
This style is more casual and may be worn around town, or dressed up with a formal obi for a restaurant. Both married and unmarried women may wear komon. The Edo komon dyeing technique originated with the samurai class during the Edo period. Mofuku is formal mourning dress for men or women. Both men and women wear kimono of plain black silk with five kamon over white undergarments and white tabi. For women, the obi and all accessories are also black.
Men wear a subdued obi and black and white or black and gray striped hakama with black or white zori. The completely black mourning ensemble is usually reserved for family and others who are close to the deceased. The feature of it is the short sleeve, the traditional main color of body is black, the lap of kimono has some simple pattern and elegant color. Irotomesode with five family crests are the same as formal as kurotomesode , and are worn by married and unmarried women, usually close relatives of the bride and groom at weddings and a medal ceremony at the royal court.
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